So You Want To Start Surfing
So you want to start surfing. All those pictures and video of curling blue peaks and crystal tubes have worked their magic on you. Great. Welcome to the world of surfing. Now to get started.
Surfing is a very enjoyable sport but can be dangerous. Spending your time in an ocean full of currents, tows and breaking waves brings risks. It is important to learn to "read the break". Start on a sandy beach; it is best to leave the point and reef breaks until you have some skills. But even on the beach danger lurks so find an experienced lifeguard to show you how to spot a rip and the best places to paddle out.
You will want to be a competent swimmer. It is important that you can make it back to shore in the event you become separated from your board. The ability to swim 100m should be viewed as a minimum requirement.
You should also be reasonably fit. If a wave tosses you off your board you will be required to hold your breath for a time and this does reduce your energy quite quickly. Nothing gets you fit for surfing like, well, surfing. Start with some short sessions in the water and work up from there.
A good way to get familiar with the surf and to build up some fitness is to swim in the waves. Go to a patrolled beach and throw yourself into the whitewater. Let yourself get washed around and become familiar with the sensation of breaking waves.
If you are completely new to the surf maybe try a bodyboard to begin with. Again, find a patrolled beach and use the bodyboard to get out past the breaking waves and paddle into a few. Bodyboarding is a great way to get a feel for the ocean and its movements if you have never caught a wave.
Now for the good stuff. Finding a board. Beginners may want to start with a soft surfboard - a stable board that is softer than the standard fibreglass boards. Ideal for learning the basics of surfing.
If choosing a regular fibreglass board the rule of thumb is that the longer the board, the easier it is to ride. A longer, wider, fatter board is easier to paddle and ride than a shorter, slimmer board. What it gives up in speed and dynamics it makes up for in stability. As you progress as a surfer you will likely try many different types of boards. You will find surfboards for sale in surf shops (obviously) and there are plenty of second hand surfboards on ebay.
Now, just before hitting the waves there is one more think you need to do. Find some flat water somewhere and go for a paddle. Paddling will make or break you as a surfer. Your paddling ability will get you out past the breakers and once out the back will get you into a wave. So become familiar with your board and start building those paddling muscles before your first surf.
Ok. You're ready. Let's go surfing.
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